Handbag

Lore & Background

The handbag's origins trace back to antiquity. Early examples include a pouch worn by Ötzi the Iceman (c. 3350–3105 BC) and leather bags found in Egyptian burial sites (c. 2686–2160 BCE). The ancient Greeks used leather, papyrus, and linen purses called byrsa to store coins, which is the etymological origin of the word 'purse.' An ornate leather purse from Anglo-Saxon Britain, dated circa 625 CE, was discovered at Sutton Hoo, containing gold coins and ornaments. The oldest surviving handbag in the world today is the Courtauld bag, tentatively believed to have been made at Mosul in the early 1300s, likely belonging to an Ilkhanate noblewoman.

Until the late 1700s, both men and women carried bags. By the late 18th century, women's fashions moved toward slender reticules made of fine fabrics, while men adopted pockets in trousers. The modern handbag emerged during the Industrial Revolution, partly due to railway travel. In 1841, Samuel Parkinson ordered a set of traveling cases and insisted on a leather handbag for his wife, as her purse was too small and fragile. H. J. Cave produced the first modern set of luxury handbags, including a clutch and a tote. Critics initially said such bags would 'break the backs of ladies,' and H. J. Cave ceased promoting them after 1865, though they continued making handbags for royalty and special occasions.

In the 20th century, handbags transitioned from practical items to symbols of wealth and status. They were initially criticized as unfeminine, and Sigmund Freud argued that purses were sexually suggestive. During World War II, rationing led to handbags made from raffia or crocheted yarn. Men's bags, once common, were revived by designers in the 1970s, and by the 1990s a diverse range of men's accessory bags appeared, including messenger bags and satchels.

Reader's Guide

The handbag's significance lies in its evolution from a simple coin pouch to a complex fashion accessory that reflects social status, gender roles, and cultural shifts. Originating in antiquity as a utilitarian item for carrying tools, currency, and personal effects, the handbag became a gendered accessory in the 19th century, when women's bags grew larger and more ornate while men's pockets replaced their purses. The 1841 commission by Samuel Parkinson marked a turning point, establishing the handbag as a distinct, luxury item made of durable materials. This innovation challenged contemporary norms, as critics deemed such bags unnecessary and unfeminine. Over the 20th century, handbags transformed into symbols of wealth and identity, with brand names and styles often outweighing functionality. The accessory also became a site of psychological interpretation, as seen in Freud's controversial analysis. The handbag's legacy includes its role in women's fashion as a marker of class and charity, and its later expansion into men's accessories, reflecting changing gender norms. Today, handbags remain a multi-billion-dollar global industry, with designs ranging from the practical to the opulent, and continue to be objects of both utility and cultural commentary.

Did You Know?

• The oldest known purse dates back more than 5000 years and was a pouch worn by a man, Ötzi the Iceman.
• The Courtauld bag, made in the early 1300s, is thought to be the oldest surviving handbag in the world.
• The term 'handbag' began appearing in the early 1900s and was initially most often used to refer to men's hand-luggage.
• In 1841, Samuel Parkinson ordered the first modern set of luxury handbags from H. J. Cave, including a clutch and a tote.